Angus Paul Chenin Blanc 2023 ‘On a Flight of Furious Fancies’

Angus Paul Chenin Blanc
Kleur: geel met een gouden gloed
Geur: open en mineraal, grapefruit, gele appels, bloemig, zilt
Smaak: intrigerend, ingetogen fruit, heel zuiver en frisse zuren. Het ziltige komt terug met een fijn bittertje, dat geeft een bite.
Houdbaar: op dronk, minimaal houdbaar tot eind 2027
Lekker bij: stevige visgerechten (corvina of tonijn), zeebaars, viscurry, pittige vega gerechten, belegen kazen

TASTING NOTES by Angus:
A rush of white pome fruit exits the glass along with salty sea spray notes and confected fruit – I think of yellow gummy bears. A mineral or flinty character sits beneath the fruit like chainmail, awaiting. The palate is razor sharp; linear but coating in leesy creaminess. It is a wine of some length, its lingering saltiness is something we think is becoming quite signature to the area (Polkadraai Hills).

WINEMAKING
Grapes from a 1988 vineyard (Karibib) are hand picked and cooled overnight. Grapes were lightly crushed on the stem (not destemmed) and then pressed as whole bunches. This light crushing allowed us to press very lightly and avoid too much turning of the press whilst attaining low, but satisfactory yields of juice. No sulphur, yeast, acid, enzymes or water were added.
Very cloudy juice was transferred to neutral oak barrels, with only the heaviest of solids left behind. Fermentation took place over 4 weeks, after which about half of the barrels completed malolactic fermentation. In Autumn wines were sulphured for the first time. Wines were bottled in December after having spent 11 months in barrel with no racking or fining.

THE NAME
Inspired by an anonymous Medieval English poem, “Tom O’Bedlam”. This can be read many ways – it is quite literally a tale of us going off in flight and producing, zealously, this wine project. Or of the historic South African wine industry as a whole, producing wine in the corner of this mysterious continent. Or more recently, of the pioneering winemakers of the last 25 years, revitalising the industry. Or, in a profound sense, this Bacchic compulsion as humans, that wherever we go, we must make wine.

Tim Atkin 93/100
Still just 30 years of age, Angus Paul is a very exciting young talent. Fermented in old 500-litre barrels, this Karibib Chenin Blanc shows what he calls the “beautiful delicacy” of the vintage. Chiselled, focused direct, it has granitic freshness, a touch of oyster shell and flavours of oatmeal and citrus zest balanced by a dab of cream. 2024-30

WineMag 94/100
From a Chenin Blanc vineyard on Karibib, Polkadraai Hills planted in 1988. Pear, peach and fynbos on the nose while the palate has well defined fruit and snappy acidity. Great depth, surprisingly so given an alcohol of just 12.5%. Layers of flavour, the finish long and dry.

Platter’s ****(*) 94/100 
Usual core of restrained but luscious sweet fruit on 2022, along with scrubby hillside notes, & a hint of salt on the long finish. At 12.6% alc, a little lighter-feeling than Barbary; the acidity a bit more succulently pronounced & grippy, but in harmony. Polkadraai Hills origin. These whites also in older oak.

Angus:
This vintage open in body and tight in texture: kelp, citrus creams and apples jump forth. The palate is equally tight, but rounder than previous vintages. The acidity is ripe and rushes across the palate with waves of white stone fruit and golden delicious apples.